Crater Lake – Indian Peaks Wilderness – Worth the Wait!

It’s difficult to get a permit to camp at Crater Lake in Colorado due to the rising popularity of this amazing place. But the views, wildlife, and overall experience of the Indian Peaks Wilderness make it worth your time!

Author: Jamie Bone

October 1, 2021


Getting There


From Denver, take I-70 W, which merges with hwy 40. Stay on US-40 W, then turn right on US-34 E after Granby. Turn right onto Co Rd 6. Drive to the Monarch Lake Trailhead. Crater Lake can also be accessed via the Long Lake Trailhead from the Brainard Lake Recreation Area.

The iconic view of Mirror Lake next to Lone Eagle Peak in colorful Colorado!

Our Itinerary: 4 days/3 nights


You can complete this hike in as little as 1 day, but you will have to hike quickly and you won’t get much time to explore. We decided to spend as much time as possible with an extra day to climb Pawnee Pass.

  • Day 1: Hike approximately 6 miles
    • Camp along the Cascade Creek Trail
  • Day 2: Hike remaining 2 miles
    • Explore the area
    • Camp at Crater Lake
  • Day 3: Complete Pawnee Pass
    • Hike 1 mile to the Pawnee Y intersection
    • Hike 2 miles to Pawnee Pass
    • Return to the intersection and camp along the Cascade Creek Trail
  • Day 4: Return to Trailhead for well-deserved pizza and beer!
From Left to right: Dandy (my hiking partner), Isabella (our newest hiking friend), Jamie (me), and Sean (my life partner)

Crater Lake Campground


The Crater Lake Campground has 12 designated campsites to choose from. Once you’ve acquired your permit, the sites are first-come, first-serve. Some of the sites are difficult to locate (#10, #11). Our favorite sites were #4, #7, and #12. Campsite #4 is one of the first campsites you come across when you get to Mirror Lake. It has iconic views of Lone Eagle Peak and flat terrain for a tent, but very little shade. Campsite #7 is all the way over on the other side of the lake and rather secluded. It has decent views, good shade, and flat terrain. We chose to go elsewhere because we didn’t think two tents would fit there. Campsite #12 is the most popular because of its rock shelf location and the old cabin located in the middle of the site. Be aware that other hikers may come to the area to check out the cabin, so you may not have much privacy.

Be sure to display your permit at your campsite. Remember there are no fires allowed in this area. Be sure to follow all Leave No Trace principles when in the Indian Peaks Wilderness in order to preserve it for the future.

Our group picture at the end of our 4-day hike on the Cascade Creek Trail

The Cascade Creek Trail


This trail begins at the Monarch Lake Trailhead and proceeds for 8 miles to Crater Lake. If you choose to go to Pawnee Pass, there is a Y intersection about 1 mile before Crater Lake and that will take you 3 miles further to Pawnee Pass. There are tons of waterfalls and beautiful rock shelves on this trail. Wildlife was abundant when we went. We saw a total of 15 moose during our 4 days on this trail!

This moose was on the trail, just 10 feet in front of me!
This moose calf wandered straight through our campsite! The mother was not too happy about that.

Applying for a Permit


  • June 1-September 15: permits are required to camp in the Indian Peaks Wilderness
  • September 16 – May 31: permits are not required for groups of 1-7 people. Large groups (8-12 people) still have to apply for a permit.
  • Check the USDA’s Backcountry Zone Map to reference where you want to camp. Crater Lake is typically accessed from the Monarch Lake Trailhead or the Brainard Lake Recreation Area.
  • Permits are available for purchase at recreation.gov.
  • Crater Lake only allows camping in 12 designated campsites. This is designed to lower the effects that dispersed camping has on the fragile alpine soil and vegetation.
  • Campfires are prohibited at Crater Lake as well as many other areas in the Indian Peaks Wilderness.
  • Pets must be on a leash at all times in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. This protects your pets, the wildlife, and you from any unfortunate encounters.
  • Packstock is prohibited in the Crater Lake backcountry zone.
The view of Lone Eagle Peak from the Pawnee Pass Trail

Tips


  • There are 3 types of permits available:
    • Full season in advance – check recreation.gov to see what date these will be available.
    • 3 nights in advance – these permits are available 3 nights prior to the start of your trip.
    • Large group (8-12 people) day use permits.
  • We applied for the full season in advance permit in order to secure our campsite for one of the busiest weekends of the entire season. We signed in at midnight and the permits went like crazy! But we were able to secure a permit on one of the days we wanted.
  • Weekends and holidays will be popular and crowded. You’ll have a better chance on a weekday trip during the shoulder season.
  • We accessed Crater Lake from the Monarch Lake trailhead. If you access it from the Brainard Lake area, you’ll have to cross Pawnee Pass to get there.
So many moose!

If you found this useful, check out our article on the Best Hikes in Hawaii or Gourd Lake.

The Best Hikes in Hawaii: 8 Trails on Oahu, Kauai, and Big Island

Hawaii is a hiker’s paradise. During our camping trip on Oahu, Big Island, and Kauai, we hiked a large number of trails that took us from the rocky beaches of Waipi’o Valley to the jagged mountains of the Nāpali Coast. Here are the best hikes in Hawaii from our trip. Along the way, we’ll include some tips for some of the best Hawaiian food you can grab along the way!

Author: Jamie Bone

September 24, 2021


Oahu Hikes


1. Koko Head Crater Trail

Oahu

Also known as the “Koko head Stairs”, this trail will give you quite a workout. This trail is one of several military lookout pillbox locations in Hawaii with railways to the top. The military used the trams to haul supplies to the lookout points. Abandoned now, the railways are used as hiking stairs to reach the abandoned military bunkers.

This being one of the shorter Oahu hikes, you’ll see views very quickly since you gain elevation so fast. The views from the top are windy and impressive.

When we were there, you could choose to volunteer to take materials up the stairs for repairs. After seeing very strong men and women carrying bags of gravel and lumber up the hillside when I could barely catch my breath carrying my own weight, I’m glad I decided against it. (Next time!)

Oahu Hikes - Kokohead Crater

Get there early. Parking fills quickly because this hike is popular. DennyandNikki have a full article on this trail.

Tip: While you’re on Oahu, don’t forget to stop by Ted’s Bakery for one of their chocolate croissants! Get there early because they sell out fast.

Round Trip Mileage: 1.6 miles

Elevation Gain: 885 ft

2. Kuliouou Ridge Trail

Oahu

Located very close to Honolulu, this trail would be a fun one to put early or late in your itinerary. Of all the trails we did on this trip, I’d say this was one of the least trafficked. We saw a total of 4 people. We did this hike later in the day in order to catch the sunset. This trail winds through dense forest with steep inclines along the way. If it has been raining, then mud will probably be an issue. Once you make it to the spine of Kuliouou Ridge, you’ll continue to the summit where the views are rewarding.

Oahu Hikes - Kuliouou Ridge Trail

This was my favorite of our Oahu hikes. MadetoTravel has a full article on this trail.

Tip: Don’t forget to visit Helena’s Hawaiian Food for authentic local cuisine. Get menu D for a large variety.

Round Trip Mileage: 4.7 miles

Elevation Gain: 1,650 ft


Big Island Hikes


3. Honokāne Nui Overlook

Big Island

This trail starts at the Pololu Valley Overlook. The trail quickly descends to the valley floor. Many people stop here at the beach, which is beautiful. The water at the beach is notoriously dangerous and there is no lifeguard on duty. So it should only be attempted by experienced swimmers and surfers.

Best places to hike on Big Island - Honokāne Nui Overlook

As you hike to the Eastern side of Pololu Valley beach, the trail continues away from the shore to the overlook.

This was our best hike on the Big Island. Route of Adventure has a full article on this trail.

Tip: As you’re hiking Big Island, don’t forget to pick up some Kona coffee! We got ours from Rooster Farms. They give you a tour and tastings! Peaberry dark roast was my favorite!

Round Trip Mileage: 3.2 miles

Elevation Gain: 1200 ft.

4. Kilauea Iki Trail

Big Island

You descend through lush rainforest to a flat black panel that was once a lava lake. With their beautiful red flowers, Ohia trees stick out of the black lava, creating a dynamic landscape. The Puʻupua‘i cinder cone erupted in 1959, creating 1900 feet of volcanic activity in the air. This trail shows the leftover remains of this eruption and the recovering vegetation.

Best places to hike on Big Island - Kilauea Iki Trail

Parking may be limited. Check the national park website for your parking options.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park charges a fee to enter the park. For more information, click here.

Round Trip Mileage: 3.0 miles

Elevation Gain: 688 ft

5. Captain Cook Monument Trail

Big Island

Bring your snorkeling gear and extra water for this one! This trail takes you from the SW cliffs of the Big Island down to Kealakekua Bay, where we did some of our best snorkeling. You’ll also see the monument for the British explorer Captain James Cook.

Just rest up with a snack and some water before heading back up to the trailhead. The hike back up the hill is a doozy!

Theworldonmynecklace has a full article on this trail.

Round Trip Mileage: 3.8 miles

Elevation Gain: 1300 ft


Kauai Hikes


6. Kalalau Trail

Kauai

Best Hikes in Hawaii - Best places to hike on Kauai - Kalalau Trail

If you’re looking for the best hikes in Hawaii, the choices are too many. But many people will tell you the Kalalau is the most popular.

The trail begins at Ha’ena State Park. Day hiking is allowed without a permit up to Hanakapi’ai Beach (2 miles from trailhead). Anyone proceeding from beyond that point is required to have an overnight camping permit. For more information, click here.

The sights on this trail are superb as you weave in and out of the rainforest to the rocky cliffs overlooking the Pacific ocean. An early start is necessary to beat the midday heat. It rained nearly all day on our return trip, which chased away the heat but brought some muddy challenges along the way. And of course, there’s the famous Crawler’s Ledge! I’d heard it wasn’t that scary and it really wasn’t. But I slipped on it and accidentally dropped one of my trekking poles in the ocean! Scary, because it could have been me!

Round Trip Mileage: 22 miles

Total Elevation Gain: 6,177

7. Waimea Canyon Trail

Kauai

Waimea Canyon was called “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific” by Mark Twain. This trail takes you along the canyon down to Waipo’o Falls. Be aware, you’ll be on top of the falls, looking out to the canyon and this catches some people by surprise when they arrive.

This trail begins at the Halemanu trailhead and proceeds to the Canyon Trailhead. Mud will be an issue if it has rained recently.

Best places to hike on Kauai - Waimea Canyon Trail

Nikki at SheSavesSheTravels has a full article on this trail.

Tip: On your way to Koke’e State Park, stop by Taro Ko Chip Factory for some of their famous taro chips. However, don’t be sad if they’re closed or sold out. We tried 3x and never got our taro fix.

Round Trip Mileage: 8.0 miles

Elevation Gain: 1,066 ft

8. Awa’awapuhi Trail

Kauai

This trail ends at a ridgetop overlooking Awa’awapuhi and Nualolo valleys. This trail gave us the best perspective on the Napali Coast because we could see the narrowness of the cliffs, which can be more difficult to see from below. The grandeur of this hike is indescribable. You simply have to walk out on the cliff and experience it for yourself! It’s easy to see from the picture why this trail is one of the best hikes in Hawaii!

It’s all downhill on the way in, which means it’s all uphill on the way back. John Peltier has a full post on this trail.

Round Trip Mileage: 6.0

Elevation Gain: 1,945 ft

Summary

I hope you’ve enjoyed our article on the best hikes in Hawaii. Hiking Hawaii can be an amazing experience. The terrain can be difficult, especially when wet. But these islands will reward your steps with some of the most glorious views of your life. Be sure to respect the native cultures, their land, and their rich heritage. Learn as much as you can before you go and it will make the experience much more fulfilling.

Keep an eye on our photo gallery for pictures from our Hawaii trip.

Finally Ultralight! – 2021 Colorado Gear List

Total Base Weight: 9.7 lbs

Pack:

Pa’Lante V2 19″

Shelter:

ZPacks Triplex (Green Spruce)

MSR Groundhogs (6)

MSR Mini Groundhogs (4)

Sleep System:

Enlightened Equipment Revelation Quilt (Custom 10 deg 950 fill)

Thermarest Xtherm Max

Exped Air Pillow

Cook System:

BRS 3000T Ultralight Stove

Evernew .9 L Pot

Homemade Koozie

Mini Bic

Toaks Titanium Long Handle Spork

Sealine 30 L Dry Bag

Zing-it throw line

Water System:

Sawyer Squeeze

Cnoc Vecto 2L Water Bag

1 750ml Smart Water Bottle

1L Smart Water Bottle

Clothes:

Mountain Hardwear Crater Lake Long Sleeve Hoody

Arcteryx Oriel Leggings

Exofficio Women’s Give ‘n Go 2.0 Mesh Bikini Briefs

Injinji Socks

REI 850 down jacket

Black Diamond Stormline Rain Jacket

Knit hat

Marmot Men’s Power Stretch Gloves

Topo Athletic Terraventure 3 Shoes

Electronics

Anker Powercore PD 20,000

Fotopro flexible tripod

Samsung Note 10 Plus

Petzl Actik Core Headlamp

Nikon D3400

Nikkor 50 mm f/1.4G lens

Leki Micro Vario Carbon Trekking Poles (women)

Misc:

Ditty bag

Leuko Tape

Deuce of Spades Trowel

Toothbrush (cut in half) – Free from dentist

First Aid Kit – custom made by me

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. If you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission at NO EXTRA COST TO YOU. This helps support the website and allows me to continue to make content like this. Thank you for the support. I am also not sponsored by any of these products. I bought them with my own money.

Altra Timp 3 – Full Review

I was very excited about the Timp 3’s release. I’d heard Timps were more cushiony than Lone Peaks and still had the wide toe box that everyone loved about Altra shoes. I’d only had one pair of Altra shoes prior to this: the Lone Peak 4’s. I loved them, but durable – they were not. The mesh wore out and got holes in the toes.

The Timp 3’s after only 2 months of use.
Holes in my Lone Peak 4’s after 1 season of love and abuse.

I knew the Timps would have similar problems since they were made of even weaker mesh. But perhaps it could be mitigated with some Shoe Goo before they busted open.

Out of the box, the Timp 3’s were a tad on the narrow side. I had to lace my left shoe (the one with the wide deformity) differently to accommodate my foot. This was disappointing, but didn’t surprise me. Altras have slowly been moving toward the narrow side in the toe box for the last couple of years and I’m not sure why.

On the trail, the ground feel was superb! I could cover more miles in these shoes than my Lone Peaks because they had more cushion without sacrificing ground feel. I could feel the rocks beneath my feet without them poking me in the bones. At the end of the day, I’d make it to camp, ready to cover more miles. This was a feeling I hadn’t felt when wearing the Lone Peaks.

A side-by-side comparison of the Timp 3 (left) and Lone Peak 4 (right)

These shoes dry very quickly, as they should. I have no worries stepping in water or mud because they’ll dry 20 minutes later. A question from a reader asked, “Are the Timp 3’s waterproof?” No, they are not. Waterproof shoes, ironically, take much longer to dry if they get wet. Mesh shoes, on the other hand, will dry more quickly.

I still have a huge qualm with Altra’s Maxtrac soles. They are wonderful on dry land. But if they get wet, watch out. Slip, slip, bippity, slip. Your butt will be in that water. These soles are not good when wet. I much prefer Vibram for wet conditions. I think this might be my biggest problem with these shoes as well as my Lone Peaks. Though strange as it seems, my Lone Peaks seem to grip better in wet conditions than these Timp 3’s do. Is it possible they’d changed the formula of the Maxtrac soles? Is it my imagination? I’m going to test this at a later date because I really want to know.

Maxtrac soles just don’t match up to Vibram in wet conditions.

Sure enough, after only one hiking trip in the Timps, I could see the mesh upper starting to shred. I had a decision to make: return them or put Shoe Goo on the mesh sides and try to make them last as long as possible. Considering how difficult it is to find hiking shoes that fit me, I decided to keep them.

Timp 3 Shoe Goo repair

The Shoe Goo repairs are holding up well. I still don’t like how these shoes handle on really wet surfaces, but that’s why I carry Vibram-soled sandals with me.

ANALYSIS

Pros

  • Cushiony
  • Breathable

Cons

  • Toe box not as wide as expected
  • Mesh rips too easily
  • Maxtrac soles are slippery on wet surfaces

CONCLUSION

This will probably be the last pair of Altras I purchase. They’re moving in a direction that supports more narrow-footed people. Fragile mesh is something found on most breathable trail-runners and shoe manufacturers have not been able to solve this issue yet. I don’t trust Maxtrac soles. I’m going with Vibram from now on.

Altra was the trail-runner ruler for a short while, but there are some new stars on the horizon such as Hoka and Topo Athletic. Comparable alternatives to the Timp 3 would be the Hoka Speedgoat and the Topo Athletic Terraventure. These shoes have been receiving good reviews all over the web and I’m excited to give one of them a try.

Sossusvlei

Where we stayed: Sesriem Camp

Length of Stay: 1 day

This iconic sand dune paradise was one of the locations that lured me to Namibia. After seeing Deadvlei in movies like Mad Max: Fury Road and The Cell, I knew I had to see this weird place and photograph those weird camelthorn trees that seem to defy nature.

In my original itinerary, I’d planned for two nights at Sesriem, but unfortunately the travel time from the airport (45 minutes) + picking up the truck (1 hour) + rules about no driving at night = we didn’t have time to make it to Sossusvlei our first night. So the itinerary changed to 1 night at Sossusvlei.

If I could do the trip over again, I’d definitely stay 2 nights at Sossusvlei. There’s simply too much to do and see here. From hiking to Deadvlei, hiking Dune 45, photographing oryx and ostrich, and the travel time within the area, there’s not enough time in one day to soak up this magnificent spectrum. But we gave it our best shot.

A windy Dune 45

Our first stop was Dune 45. We arrived around noon (not the best time for dune hiking). The dune was hot and windy. We wore old socks and trampled our way up the first ridge, not realizing that the wind would stop us before we’d made it even 30 minutes into this sandy trek. After blowing my sunglasses off my face, and pushing down several times, the wind did not let up. The copper-colored sand swarmed up in the air, leaving our vision blurred. We laughed at the unbelievable “weather” we were experiencing that could be escaped by a quick jog down the dune. The was the softest jog I’ve ever experienced! I wish the whole world was made of sand like that; nobody’s feet would ever be sore!

The colors of Deadvlei are captivating.

We then proceeded to the famed Deadvlei (meaning “Dead Marsh”). The sign from the 4×4 parking lot says 1.1 km to Deadvlei. Do not be misled by the short distance; bring plenty of water! This is one of the driest places on Earth!

The 4×4 road from Deadvlei

We went around 1 pm and were lucky enough to have Deadvlei all to ourselves for about 25 minutes. It’s beautiful, yet eerie at the same time. These trees once had their own supply of water that was cut off by the moving dunes. The trees died and cannot decompose due to the intense, dry air. So they stand erect in the desert, surrounded by copper sand and blue skies, creating a landscape that looks almost unreal.

These are some of the biggest dunes in the world!

Each dune looked like it’s own playground. I wanted to know what the world looked like from the top of each one. Unfortunately, I now knew that dune hiking was incredibly difficult and tiring. At this point, I was satisfied with taking pictures of them from the ground.

This picture looks other-worldly to me.

Sesriem campsite was lovely. You get early entrance to the park (but not overnight unfortunately) and plenty of space at the campsites. I took this photo from our campsite in the morning and it shows was a spectacular sunrise it was. I wanted to get back out and take pictures with the dunes, but we had to move on.

Sesriem sunrise

I was sad to say goodbye to this wondrous place. I felt like there was so much left to explore here. I wonder what mysteries are buried under these dunes; what unknown stories this desert could tell if the wind could speak. But part of the fun is the wonder.

Christmas in the Sonoran Desert

I know we’re supposed to spend Christmas indoors with family. But Sean and I have been breaking that rule for the last two years. Last year, we went to Alaska…in December! So this year, I said let’s go somewhere a bit warmer: Arizona. It was warmer than Alaska, but not by much!

Day 1: Arrive in Phoenix

We arrived in Phoenix in the morning after a comfortable 2.5 hour flight. We picked up our ride for the trip: a 4-wheel drive Toyota Tacoma. We rented this beauty from Turo, which is basically an airbnb service for people’s cars. Cody, the owner of the truck, gave us a very fair rate on the truck: $51/day. It was the gas that I was worried about!

We stopped to have lunch with friends from grad school, then set off for our first hike of the trip: Massacre Grounds in the Superstition Mountains. These mountains have a long history behind them. The legend of the Lost Dutchman’s Gold Mine centers in the mountains. According to legend, German immigrant Jacob Waltz discovered a huge amount of gold in the mountains and released its location to his caretaker on his deathbed. Apparently, nobody has confirmed the location of the gold mine. And all who go looking for it come across misfortune or death.

Fortunately for us, we were not seeking gold on this hike. But misfortune found us, nonetheless. Rain. Nothing but rain for hours. It soaked through our layers after some time and things got very cold. We persevered through the 5.3 miles and were rewarded with breath-taking scenery when the sun finally peaked through the clouds near the end.

Day 2: Ironwood Forest National Monument

Encompassing 129,000 acres of desert mountain ranges and one of the richest stands of ironwood in the Sonoran Desert, this area led my curiosity astray. I found it difficult to find information (which usually means this area is not a common spot for tourists). The research mentioned bushwhacking and a “travel corridor for illegal immigrants” which also led to a conclusion of lack of tourism.

Ragged Top Peak

Our main objective: Ragged Top Peak. This craggy mountain is made up of rhyolite, an extrusive volcanic rock associated with copper mining. This mountain stands prominent over the surrounding desert with a somewhat haunted-castle appearance.

We bushwhacked to a distance from the peak where we would have a good view of the mountain. We soon realized we’d need to do it again at sunrise to have good lighting. We set up camp near the truck, strung up some lights on the tent, and enjoyed some warm Christmas cider.

Campsite at Ironwood National Monument

Day 3: Saguaro National Park

In the morning, we got our beautiful shots of Ragged Top during sunrise, then made our way back to the truck. Afterwards, it was off to Saguaro National Park. We asked ourselves, “What would Saguaro NP have that Ironwood doesn’t?”

The mighty Saguaro cactus

The answer: trails. Lots of trails. Ironwood essentially has no trails and Saguaro NP seems to be filled with them. The other thing that Saguaro NP is filled with: tourists. The relatively flat terrain makes it very family-friendly. Sure, there are backcountry trails that are very difficult if you want a challenge and solitude, but a rainy forecast once again kept us from such things. So we just enjoyed the Cactus Forest Loop for a day and called it good. Not exactly my favorite part of the trip though.

Day 4-6: Sedona

The snow had finally stopped and we could finally visit Sedona! Little did we know what challenges awaited us in this bustling town.

The first challenge was the mud and ice. Slippery, slick, everywhere, mud and ice. Most of us are familiar with black ice on the roads. Ever hear of red ice? Totally invisible, but deadly stuff! I know some people enjoy slogging through mud; I am not one of those people. I’ll take ankle twisters, rain, and even snow before I’ll take mud. But it was not to be escaped on any of the trails in Sedona.

Doe Mountain

We were able to get numerous trails done while in Sedona including Doe Mountain, Fay Canyon, Brins Mesa, Boynton Canyon, and Thunder Mountain. Sean’s favorite was Fay Canyon. My favorite was also Fay Canyon, but Brins Mesa COULD have been my favorite if there had been less mud!

While hiking, I’d noticed that Sedona has a huge noise pollution problem. It comes from helicopters. Every 5 minutes, a helicopter flies over your head, giving a short tour, then flies away. The sandstone only magnifies the sound of the rotors. It made the hiking less enjoyable.

Another challenge of Sedona is cost. It KNOWS it’s beautiful and it charges you for it in lodging costs. We soon realized we couldn’t afford anything. So, camping in the Coconino Forest outside of town was our only option. It was going to be a cold night; about 23 degrees F. Luckily, I came prepared with my Valandre Neo Odin sleeping bag. (I’m a very cold sleeper.) Sean’s sleeping bag, on the other hand, popped a zipper on the first night and he had to spend it in the truck to avoid the wind.

The next day, we went to Canyon Outfitters in Sedona to find a new sleeping bag for Sean. After calculating several costs, we determined that a $300 sleeping bag would cost less than 1 night of lodging in Sedona! Canyon Outfitters was very helpful and a fun store. The best part: you roll pigs like dice after your purchase for a discount on a future purchase. Sean rolled a “snouter” for $23 worth of free gear!

https://www.canyonoutfitterssedona.com/

New sleeping bag acquired, we proceeded with our hikes and camping. As we progressed through this trip, I realized that part of me loved Sedona and part of me disliked it. I loved the scenery (as everyone does) and I loved the small-town vibes. But the fact that lodging costed so much and there were tourists around every corner detracted from its appeal. Then, on our last day, an experience kind of sealed my love/hate relationship with Sedona.

We were walking Downtown, looking for gifts, food, etc. We see a sign that says, “Helicopter tour: $49.” Um, what? How can that be possible? So of course, we go inside and ask the guy about such a deal. He was a nice guy named Bryan who told us that he was running a special New Year’s Eve special and it was even cheaper: $30/person! But of course, there was a catch. He worked for Diamond Resorts. If you’ve never heard of these guys, they’re a timeshare company. He told us that all we had to do was tour one of their timeshare resorts for 2.5 hours and we could get the helicopter deal. Sean and I ALMOST fell for it! Thirty dollars for a helicopter ride is a steal! But it would only last for 15 minutes and then we’d spend 2.5 hours of our vacation telling some guy we wouldn’t be buying a timeshare, which would be miserable. We finally left before we said ‘yes’. Wooh, that was a close one. But it explains why Sedona has non-stop helicopters flying over its mesas. It’s a bit of a shame, really.

Day 7-8: Back to Phoenix

We headed back to Phoenix, not wanting to camp in freezing temperatures another night. We stopped at some fun places once we got into town: The Perch Brewery is a bird sanctuary/brewery with rescued birds. I’d never seen a hyacinth macaw before, but they’re the biggest type of macaw! We went to Organ Stop Pizza to see one of the largest theatre organs be played while we eat of my favorite foods. Turns out, the organist Brett Valliant is from Wichita and one heck of a musician!

Hyancinth macaw named Bubba. Yes, he bites!

Next day, we went back to the Superstition Mountains and drove the Apache trail to Tortilla Flats. It was New Years Day, so there were plenty of people on the road including motorcycles, corvettes, and classic cars. It added to the stunning scenery of this beautiful road!

In the evening, we visited Sean’s Uncle Paul and Aunt Cheri in Casa Grande. It was nice to see family during the holidays.

Take Away

Arizona was a beautiful, but rough-going trip. We didn’t make any reservations ahead of time in order to keep our schedule free. This allowed us the freedom to go where we wanted, but also created stress on nights when we felt like we needed lodging.

The gas ended up costing about $350 for 9 days of driving. Not bad, but not great. But that’s the price you pay for peace of mind on those backcountry roads.

The weather didn’t always cooperate, but it almost never does. You just have to deal with what Mother Nature gives you.

We got to see four areas on my list, but there’s still so much to see in this magnificent state.

Gourd Lake – A Local Secret

The Experience

“Man, this is easy! I’m storming past these switchbacks. We’ll be there in no time.” My confidence would only last so long until the second set of switchbacks that would take us up the cliffside to the alpine lake. Then, there would be pain.

It blew me away that even the local rangers told us that they’d never been to Gourd Lake. It’s because the local highlight is Crater Lake underneath Lone Eagle Peak. But all the permits were gone; so the ranger on the phone recommended Gourd Lake to us. “It’s essentially the same thing except the mountain isn’t as pointy.”

The trail follows a creek from the Monarch Lake trailhead so there are plenty of water sources. Since it’s in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, the trail also isn’t nearly as crowded as some of the more popular areas of Colorado.

The trail started out quite easy for the first 6 miles or so. It climbed steadily until you reached the cliff that led to the lake. Then, the switchbacks began to make our legs burn.

In the end, it took us about 7 hours to reach the lake. We set up camp and explored the area. The wild flowers were vivacious this time of year.

The view from our tent

As we rested our throbbing calves and stared at the rockface over the lake, I began to notice it beared resemblance to Jabba the Hutt from Star Wars. From that point, we called it Jabba’s Rock.

Due to the popularity of nearby Crater Lake, I assumed we’d have company pretty soon. But we only saw about 3 people for the entire evening, including one graceful young woman who took a dip in the freezing lake. I wanted to ask her for her picture, but it seemed inappropriate for such a private setting. Looking back, I wished I’d gone for it though!

As evening set in, we enjoyed the view from our “backyard”. A simple walk to the top of some rocks gave us a gorgeous view from where we’d traveled. About 50 shots later, we ran out of sun and were very hungry.

The Indian Peaks at sunset

Star Trail Mission

I had a mission in mind for this trip. I was to capture my first star trails photo. It didn’t have to be a masterpiece; I just wanted to know how it was done. However, in my ultralight ways, I’d refused to bring a tripod up to the lake. So I was left with mother nature’s tripods.

Star trails aren’t as complicated as they seem. It’s much easier to take tons of shots with an intervalometer (if you or your camera has one) and simply stack them later. I rested my camera on top of a rock, set it to take a shot every 30 seconds at 500 ISO at F2.8. There was a new moon this night, so there was no ambient light to light up the foreground and I foolishly did not take a shot while lighting the foreground with my headlamp. So all the shots were very dark.

My first crack at a star trail

The other problem I encountered during this mission was sleep (or lack there of). I never realized that hearing a camera shutter every 30 seconds would be enough to keep me awake at night! I sleep with a fan and am very addicted to white noise when I sleep. That little “click” really threw off my sleep game that night. But it kept me awake long enough to appreciate to great horned owls “hooting” at each other for a good while. (I LOVE owls.)